The Blues

I admit that my enthusiasm for the oxford button-down could be described as borderline fanaticism at times.  (I can be seen wearing a blue one under a blue blazer in my high school senior yearbook photo and even now I wear one just about every day of the week.)  In my opinion, there are few things that say as much about masculine American style better than this traditional shirt. But while the basic design has hardly changed in the century-plus since John Brooks first found inspiration in English polo players (who were acting more out of functional need than fashionable know-how in their attempt to keep their collars from flapping while riding) the details are where variety can be found today in this stalwart of style.

I boil the main differences down to three basic items: Collar, Color, and Cut.


Collar - Probably the primary source of variety among shirt makers, the collar can also be the most crucial in accomplishing "the look" you are after. The more you compare the more you'll notice that the length, point, softness, and roll of a collar are often details unique to its maker.

Color - As you can see from the pictures below, color can vary slightly even within a unique hue. Of the four blue shirts I compared, not one is the same as another in its degree of colorfulness. Granted, this can change over time and exposure but not to the degree that these differ.

Cut - By this I simply refer to the patterned shape of the shirt as it relates to fit. Slim, full, traditional, athletic, baggy, and regular are all common adjectives when referring to cut.

Four distinct shade of blue from four different makers.

Classic LL Bean (not the disgusting non-iron variety). This shirt is baggy and soft and the lightest blue of the bunch.

Brooks Brothers traditional. A full cut with a perfect roll over a tie. This is the classic blue.

Close-up reveals improvement with age...fraying.

J. Press flap pocket. A slimmer fit than the Brooks but by no means too slim. Probably my favorite cut. Collar could stand to be softer and does not roll over tie like the Brooks. Most similar to the Brooks in color.

Ralph Lauren Yarmouth. Nice baggy fit without as much extra material as the Brooks. Collar is on the small side but still dresses up. The "greyest" blue of the bunch.

The most often worn of the above shirts is the Brooks with the J. Press coming in at a close second. All of these shirts are sized as dress shirts, which obviously helps in the fit area compared to some other brands that might otherwise be worth comparing. I've heard great things about the Hyde Park oxford from Lands End but I've never tried them. I do, however, have my sights set on a couple of Mercer & Sons OCBDs this year so I'm anxious to see where they fall in the mix. If you have a brand that you think is worth highlighting, please weigh in with a comment.

Certified Southern Snow Day

The snow here in Nashville this week means that the affordable Bosmere Wax Jacket (Made in England) can continue to prove itself a fantastic bargain by keeping the cold and moisture out while looking super at the same time.

My wife crocheted this scarf for me a several years ago and it's one of the warmest items I have.

 I still had to go to work today so the Wm. J. Mills Laptop Carryall was at my side.

Levi's and 10" Bison Leather Bean Boots always work well together.

Glengarry Look: Brunch With The In-Laws

• Brooks Brothers OCBD
• J. Crew wool cardigan
• J. Crew cords
• J. Press belt
• Timex
• Mast General Store wool socks
• L.L. Bean Ranger Mocs

My wife's father is a Chicago native and now resides just north of there in Lincolnshire, IL. Now that my wife and her sister have provided him his only five grandchildren between them, he visits our fair city as often as possible. This weekend we enjoyed one such visit and today, as is our tradition, we all met for brunch before he caught his flight home. We took them to a local delicatessen that has been a Sunday favorite for us for what feels like forever. Never-ending pancakes for the kids, endless omelet possibilities for the grownups, and the consistently good (and hot) basic coffee make it the kind of place that's hard to grow tired of, even after all these years.

Glengarry Look: Darts & Draught

• J. Press University Stripe (Wine) OCBD
• J. Crew Lambswool Sweater
• Levi's 505 (USA)
• Barrons-Hunter ribbon belt
• Timex on old Eddie Bauer leather strap
• L.L. Bean "Ranger Mocs"
• L.L. Bean Baxter State Parka
• Tweed Cap

Last night saw supper and games with coworkers at McNamara's Pub here in Nashville. I'm normally a Fish & Chips guy but I went with the Bangers & Mash with Smithwick's. (The B. and Mash was excellent. I hear the Corned Beef and the Shepherd's Pie are also both great.) Once full, we headed upstairs for team Cricket play (and a tad more Smithwick's.) My team score is on the left below:

Family Parking

Can't Keep 'em Clean

This Is Fall: Good Things From Across The Pond

 Some of my favorite Fall items happen to be English-made:

A note about the Bosmere wax jacket above: Pictured is my wife's jacket but after seeing her use it for the last few years I've decided to order one for myself. I keep seeing "wax jacket roundups" (most recently over at A Trip Down South) but I have yet to see anyone mention these. Made with gardeners and equestrians in mind these jackets are really inexpensive (you won't believe it), warm, and great-looking. The "poor man's Barbour?" Perhaps, but at the price I just paid it's a no-brainer. If you are interested in these, leave a comment and I'll email you with details.

This Is Fall: American Outerwear

Here are a few reasons why I look forward to the cooler weather around here. Made for fall in the USA.

Pointer Brand is a staple.

I love 60/40 parkas. This Woolrich is for morning chores/dog walking.

Another 60/40. L.L. Bean really ought to bring back this classic.

Union made. First belonged to my grandfather who was a welder/farmer/fisherman/blacksmith/fiddler.

Filson waxed upland jacket (game bag attached to back.)

On My Mind

Images/items/thoughts that I keep returning to lately (some mine, some found.)  Maybe it's the change in the weather here in TN that's got me thinking this way.

Eye-Catcher: LL Bean Signature Boots FW2010

So far, these boots have been the only offering from the forthcoming LL Bean Signature collection that I have looked twice at.  Now, if only they were being made stateside.  (But then they'd be more than $149.)

A Week In The Lowcountry

Tomorrow, the family and I will wrap up a week of vacation on Folly Beach, SC and head back to Music City.  I've always had a thing for the Atlantic Coast and our second trip to Folly Beach has only deepened the mystique for me.  Maybe I'll post more on that this summer.

For now, I have a few recommendations for any of you who might be planning summer trips to beach locales:

I've made it a whole week on the beach in a pair of Quoddy boat shoes and these Vans Authentics.  Right.  No flip-flops.  Just practicing what I preach.  The Vans are my beach shoes (and bike riding shoes, because we spent some time cruising the shore) and the boat shoes are for the evenings when we step out.  If I can do it, anyone can.

Don't go to the beach without an L.L. Bean Boat and Tote.  These are classic canvas, still made in Maine, USA, and come in a variety of sizes and colors.  (Our family of five requires an XL...)  This is the one bag we took to the beach every day.  It fits snacks, water, towels, toys, sunscreen, and hats.  Pretty much perfect.

I can honestly say that these Birdwell Beach Britches are the best trunks I've ever owned.  For starters, there is no elastic.  They come in actual waist sizes with a velcro/lace-up front.  (Order your size plus two for a spot-on fit.)  There are plenty of colors and length options to choose from.  These are made in Santa Ana, CA (since 1961) and I ordered mine directly from the fine Family Birdwell.  The website even includes a sizing guide for women so the ladies can get in on the cool.

For this trip, I loaded up (and taped up) a Holga medium format camera.  I like to think that Holgas are cameras for people of faith because you just kind of have to trust that you're getting something good.  I'll post the good ones once I have them developed.  Obviously, we carried a digital SLR just about everywhere we went but I threw the Holga into my bike bag for some evening rides on the beach and I'm keeping my fingers crossed....

Cheerwine.  Enough said.

Enjoy being lazy on the beach but try to incorporate some scenery (and maybe a little history) into your trip.  The Morris Island Lighthouse is one of my favorite things about this area.  (And it doesn't hurt that nearby Charleston boasts the largest historic district in the nation.)  

There are other things I should probably include in this post (I could do a post on good values in shorts alone) but I'm being told we're about to walk over to the beach for one last day of fun in the Atlantic so I'll have to wrap it up.  See you back in Nashtown.